Friday, December 4, 2009

Football, Cheaters, and Tabaski

Le 2 décembre 2009

I've been here over five and a half months now and still find that no two days are alike. The proof is being more than halfway through my third journal.

Last week one of my students told me about a football (for you US Americans out there, that's soccer; I don't know why we're the only country to call it as such) game that would be happening Tuesday evening at 16h. The game reminded me of powder puff football because it was my 3e and oldest kids against the three other classes, anyone who wanted to play (sort of). I decided to see what this game was all about and show some support, so I headed over a little after the game had started. What I found gave me flashbacks to high school and the games we used to go to after school to support our friends and socialize. My experience here was more similar than different. There were three branches used at either end of the field for a goal. The two serving as posts had a small 'V' carved into the top, so the crossbar could rest in place. The field was mostly dirt, sand, and rocks. There were no lines or machines to create them, so someone took the time to carve the shape of the field including the center circle and line our of dirt. The students playing did not where cleats or shinguards. Heck, half of them didn't wear shoes at all. The keepers (les gardiens) had no gloves or special equipment either. The shoes that were worn were these flimsy-looking white sandals or some other type of sandal that would stay on their feet. I don't recall seeing the usual flip-flop worn. I say usual because the majority of the population here wears them on a regular basis.

When I arrived I headed over in the direction of the bureau where the teachers usually sit and found three of my colleagues. (The field is located in between the school, a four-room building, and the bureau, a smaller building with more rooms.) They had a student fetch me a chair from inside and I watched most of the first half behind a tree and a bush trying to soak up as much shade as possible. We moved to the other side of the field toward the end of the first half. I took that opportunity to purchase some bananas to share. Our concession stand was a woman sitting on the ground selling bananas out of a large bowl. She's the same woman who sells little gateaux and small bags of peanuts during our school's “recreation”, a fifteen minute break each day at 10am.

Once on the other side we were in the thick of the teams playing and the crowd of student spectators. You found your usual clumps of friends, kids laughing, goofing off, running around, being silly. The parallel was neat. And I also liked being in the position of supportive teacher as many of my teachers had been. I'm still not exactly sure who won, but I don't think it was 3e. One sole goal was scored toward the end of the second half to clinch the win.

Last week I gave three exams, two English to each of my older kids, and one in biology, SVT, my younger kids of 120. They must have thought being so numerous that I couldn't see them cheating (talking amongst themselves, eying each other's papers sometimes for more than several seconds...) Well, I was on my game that day and wrote down over 10 names of cheaters. The first two boys I caught were straight up having a conversation and laughing away. I mean c'mon. Seriously? I'm glad I used the idea of a fellow PCV and instead of having them hand me their exams when they're finished which promotes cheating when a large group of them come up and crowd around me at once, I had them turn their papers over and leave a rock on top. Then they were free to go. This also helped me write down the names of several cheaters after they left. Oh how they'll be surprised today when I give them back their exams and they see a -3 on top. It's minus three out of twenty, so that's significant. One of my colleagues said he's going to come in with me next time and kick out the first two students he sees cheating. That should put the rest in line, he said. That'll be next week...

Everyone had Friday off from school and work because it was fête, Tabaski, a Muslim holiday. A majority of Burkinabè are Muslim, so their holidays are a big deal here. Tabaski celebrates the story (found in the bible and I'm guessing also the Koran) where the man was going to sacrifice his son to God, but God switches his son with a sheep at the last minute. So, the celebration consists of praying at the mosque in the morning followed by a day of killing and eating mouton (sheep), visiting with friends and family, and eating a lot/well.

My friend N.D. came by a little after 12. He saw my complet and said ça c'est propre. Then we headed out to make the rounds. First stop was at my next door neighbor. We sat down, ate some riz gras, visited a bit, and continued on our way. We stopped by one of my teaching colleagues next after walking toward the school. There we talked a bit. My colleague asked what I thought about white people bringing religions here and more specifically about my thoughts regarding families with a lot of children, 10 or 20. We were given chicken and popcorn. Delicious. Next we wandered back to the marché area. N.D. wanted to break some bigger bills in order to have change to give to kids and students that we found along our way. Apparently that's another part of the fête. We stopped at the president of his APE (an organization for the father's of students) where we were given uncooked mouton and some money. We stopped by one of N.D.'s teaching colleagues where I ate foutou (tô made out of ignames = yum) with sauce, chicken, and fried plantains (yum). We stopped by the veterinarian's house next before making a long pause at our friends M.K. and S.K. There, in a familiar atmosphere we ate salad and shared drinks of pop, N.D. had a beer, of course. Our final stop was at the treasurer of my APE, because N.D. told him he'd come by. I was more than full at this point and believe it or not did not want to consume anything else, but it's rude if you don't ate least have a “taste”, so I managed to put in a few more mouthfuls.

All-in-all it was a great day, tiring, but good. I love the atmosphere during big holidays. It's fun seeing a bunch of people walking around and enjoying themselves and each other's company. I like seeing everyone with their hair done and showing off their new clothes that they've recently had made or had been saving for a special occasion such as this. The next big holiday her will be Nöel i.e. Christmas, but I will be celebrating that with some fellow PCV's.

One other cultural note before I go: I was visiting with my neighbor this past week during lunch time, so naturally I was invited (and expected) to eat with him. I took a little less than a third of the rice available still operating under US American standards where you don't want to be rude and take too much when he made the comment about how I don't eat very much or hadn't taken much and that I must take more. He then explained that here people are content and happy if their visitors eat well, so in fact it's actually better if I take a lot than if I only take a little. They could even be offended or think that I didn't like it if I don't eat/take much. Still adjusting!

This weekend I go to Bobo to celebrate Thanksgiving with my fellow PCV's. It sounds like it'll be quite a party given that last I heard we had over 30 people coming! We've already got a local restaurant cooking the turkeys, so we'll just need to provide the sides. Can't wait.

Until next time.