Friday, November 20, 2009

A melange of my life in Burkina

Le 7 novembre 2009

My school meeting over a week and a half ago went very well. Thinking back on it, that time seems like forever ago, much like most of my time here. I've almost officially been here for 5 months and I've been in my village for over 2 already. It's crazy how time works sometime. I think it will never cease to amaze me. So, my rencontre. It took about 2 hours and natually didn't start right on time. There's something to be said about WAIT (West African Internation Time). But I was able to follow a majority of everything said. Plus, the new directeur was nice and from time to time verified that I understood and occasionally broke it down and re-explained some things just to me to be sure. He's a young man and he has this suave air about him. There's something about the way he says “d'accord” that just screams, I'm cool, calm, collected, and very comfortable in my own skin. I envy that in people. Half the time I feel so awkward or weird or out of place. Sometime to strive toward. I am liking him so far. We've been talking more and getting to know each other. I've explained a little more about how long I'm here and who I work for and whatnot. After having met and not seen each other again for about a week, during our next encounter he gave me a hard time (not in a bad way). He asked where I had been and said that I need to come by and chat, because that's how they do things here in Africa.

It takes me back to a conversation I had with my buddy and fellow PCV, L.G., about how people can't get lonely here or be left alone too long, because it's not in the culture. At that time, she told me how her language tutor here, if he went into a restaurant or somewhere and saw sometime sitting alone, he'd go sit with them. Very cool.

During out meeting we discussed grading and when it was due, the end of the trimester, discipline, collaboration groups for the teachers, and possible after school activities such as clubs we can start for the students. The directeur asked me if I had time to do an English club. I agreed, hoping not to start that until I'm teaching less English and more math and science. I also said I'd like to start a math and science club where students can go when they have questions about their assignments or topics in class. I'm not sure when or how those will start up, and I wonder if that's more up to me than anything.

After the meeting we hung out for a bit and chatted. I listened more than chatted, if you can believe it, but I think that really helps with my comprehension. I do need to try and speak more in order to improve that as well, but I'm coming along. Every now and then something happens where I realize my improvement and I feel good. Just yesterday, my supervisor/superior who is in charge of all the secondary education volunteers gave me a call. He's doing site visits next week and wanted to verify that I got his text and that the timing works. He spoke all in French until the last sentence and I, too, responded only in French. The conversation was short, but I have 2 points: It's a big deal because he called me on my cell phone and I understood a lot of what he said. Cell phones are the worst, especially when people here like to talk so quickly. Whenever my buddy N.D. calls me I often cannot understand him because he talks so darn quickly. The second point is that after my sector director ended the conversation saying something like “I'll see you next week,” I responded “À bientôt, S.” To that he said, “Wo-ohw” which I took to mean he was impressed with my language. That made me feel good and I realized I have come a long way. I still have quite a ways to go, but I've got the time and I'm making improvements, so things are going well.

After our meeting we were treated with pop or beer, naturally I had a coke and then a fanta, and a big bowl filled with meet which I later learned was a mixture of pintade (guinea fowl – apparently a big deal here and more expensive than chicken) and chicken. That's it. You'll often find that here: people sharing a large plate or dish or meet. There may be some spices, or in our case mustard, to dip it in, but that's it, nothing else with it like you'd find in the states. Interesting. And delicious.

I walked a few yards with one of my fellow professeurs who told me if I ever have any questions or problems that I need to come to them, because that's how they do it here. There's something to be said about the solidarity here. People weren't kidding. There are some things being poor can teach a lot easier than otherwise. Overall, that evening left me feeling great, because I felt like an equal during the meeting and afterwards my conversations felt inclusive and like I wasn't alone. I don't have to worry about not knowing everything or getting confused etc., because I can always ask someone for help or advice. I guess I'm starting to fit in here. Cool.

Last weekend when visiting my friend L.S., we met up with my Burkinabè buddy N.D. who came to town that Saturday and went to a local Burkina version of a nightclub. Music played, there was a room with a dance floor (equipped with disco ball and bright changing rainbow-colored lights!), a room with a mostly opened ceiling in the center where people sat and drank pop or juice or beer, and a small room next to the dance floor where the DJ sets up. N.D. is actually friends with the DJ whom we learned was the surveillant (or disciplinarian) at a local lycée. Let me tell you what, I could not for the life of me picture him as such! He laughed and joked and sang along loudly to the music, especially when it was a song in English. He even danced in his seat which is not typical here. It was a great night. I don't think I've laughed that much since I've been here.

This past week flew by like any other, and I hope they continue to do so. It means I'm enjoying myself and/or at least getting things done.

Naturally, a month into classes, I received my second schedule change. I don't mind it so much. I can adjust and usually it's not a complete change. Maybe a few classes get switched around, but my times are about the same. I feel bad for the students, because I think the schedule change will take place the following week, but my directeur tells me that the new professor and reason we needed a schedule change is already here, so it's effective immediately. The problem is when I find out the change on Wednesday morning and am supposed to go to different classes. The students, or course, were not informed of the change ahead of time, and those with class all of a sudden on that day don't have the right notebooks with them. It can be frustrating, but I made it work. I ended up giving exercises to the one class complaining to me. What I should have done was give them a quiz for the way they acted, but I couldn't help but understand a little. It's just frustrating because I had nothing to do with the change. No worries though. Ça va aller.

I played jeopardy with my 6e class this past week to prepare them for their exam. It was a way to do a fun review and reward the winning team with +1 on their exam which is a big deal: they're exams are only out of 20 points. I think they enjoyed it and definitely got into it. They would clap when someone on their team got a question right. It was great. And they cheered at the end when I wrote +1 for the winning team.

The devoir went off without a hitch, other than the copies being a bit terrible and me having to read aloud each question. I finished grading the exams yesterday. While grading I was hit with one of those profound realization moments: wow, I'm actually teaching. I'm preparing lessons and trying to find ways to make it interesting, get my students up to speed, make it fun, give them adequate practice. I'm giving quizzes and pop quizzes and tests. I'm assigning homework and sometimes grading it, because as I said, I must be a closet masochist. I'm doing it. And I'm doing okay. I had some anxieties a couple weeks back where I felt like I was floundering, like I didn't know what I was doing, and like I wasn't doing a good job. I don't need to be the best teacher there ever was (although I'm not opposed to the idea), but I want to at the very least be decent. And I want my kids to enjoy class a bit and most importantly to learn something. I also hope that they'll learn more than just the subject material. I want to instill some notions of respect and politeness. I want to teach them about little ways they can improve general health here such as by using soap when they wash their hands particularly after using the bathroom and before eating. I hope to do some other sensiblizations as well. We'll see.

Speaking of, I volunteered at my CSPS again as I do every Thursday after class. I walked onto the grounds and found my major sitting under the shade of the overhanging of a building, so I joined him. He explained that it's slower now because palu season is ending. So, for the next 2 hours we talked. He asked me about the states and about social differences. I mentioned salutations and how people greet everyone here and in the states you typically only greet those you know. I talked about their solidarity here and how I know someone will help me if I need it, but in the states there's no guarantee. And like L.S. said last weekend, in the states you also have to worry about the person trying to help you being a creeper. I mentioned “vous êtes invité”. Here, others are always invited to eat with people. If someone is eating and they see you, they always tell you you're invited. And what's more, they mean it. In the states, I explained, that when people eat it's for them alone and if they want to they can share, but often they do not. Or they'll only share with a friend or family member. My major explained that here they don't just prepare enough food for their family and they never eat it all. Whenever they prepare a meal they always make extra for any friends or strangers/foreigners, or people who may stop by. And whether they've already eaten or not, they'll have something to offer any visitors. This is probably also another reason no one goes hungry here. A concept the US can't seem to grasp. Maybe someday. I also mentioned the difference in poverty. That in both cases people don't have or don't have much money, but in the states people are starving and homeless, but here no one goes hungry and everyone has a place to sleep.

Our conversation also led to health related topics. My major wants to set up a day with my directeur for him to come and talk with the students at the CEG. It's one way to sensiblize a large group at one time. Plus, even students as young as the 6e kids need to hear and learn about certain things sooner rather than later. Things like VIH/SIDA (HIV/AIDS), how it's transmitted, how you can protect yourself and decrease your risk, why it's important to get tested and go to the dispensaire (CSPS). Things like pregnancy, grossesse. My major explained that many young girls are getting pregnant and that's not easy if you're in school. I'd imagine it's nearly impossible at some point. This is why know about contraception and using it are important. Although, my major also explained his frustrations with his sensiblizations. He said he'll talk to people about these things until they understand, but they still won't go to the dispensaire for testing, they still won't come and purchase contraception (even when it's inexpensive), and they still won't use or even try condoms. So, he said, while the occurrence of HIV/AIDS in my country is decreasing, here, it's increasing. What can you do? You explain it to people until they understand it, but then they still don't change. I guess that's a facet of life that one experiences across cultures: stubbornness and people getting stuck in their own ways. It's sad in a way and I definitely understand the frustration. And knowing that certainly isn't going to keep me from trying. I figure, if I can change one person's mind, get one person to think twice, get one person to go back and talk to their families, I've made an impact, however small. I mean, after all, Peace Corps really is a grassroots organization. Everyone dreams of changing the world and making large lasting improvements when in reality we can at best hope to change and affect a few lives for the better. Fulfill the needs that our country of service asks for. Maybe put some lasting small changes in effect whose impact won't be seen for years to come, long after we've returned home to the states, forever changed by this experience.

I'm definitely getting used to life here, especially in village. It's nice. I don't often feel rushed. People sit around a lot and visit and enjoy each other's company. They make tea, delicious sweetened tea that they share with everyone sitting around. And you drink it out of a shot glass. When you walk, unless your a young kid or a student, you walk slowly. You have time to enjoy and take in the beauty of the land without it being overcrowded with buildings, cars, and industrialization. I can see the stars at night. And without the streetlights, the moon actually lights up the land enough to see and move around outside without a flashlight. It's amazing.

Another way I've chosen to spend my time is with a woman friend of mine, M.K., who just happens to be my age. She's married and I thought she was older at first. She, too, seems very comfortable in her own skin. I've taken to visiting her a bit and we've started exchanging recipes. She showed me how to cook ignames and what I like to call a Burkinabè version of meatballs, and I taught her how to make banana bread in my dutch oven after sharing some with her. We also have some good conversations as well. We've talked about excision (female genital mutilation which does happen here – it's illegal now, but still occurs), elections including Obama and the upcoming election next year here (they've had the same president for 20 years!), the difficulties of being a woman in this country and how men just don't get it, etc. etc.

Yesterday was marché day. I love marché day. There are a bunch of people around, the sun is shining, you can find a large variety of food you can't get here on a regular basis, you can just walk around and look at what different people are selling, you can haggle, you get to see your friends and say hello...I just like it. I hit up the marché a couple times before enjoying Burkinabè spaghetti at M.K.'s, yum. They prepare it like riz gras by making a sauce, adding the spaghetti, and then boiling off all the water leaving the spaghetti flavored. Next I visited my buddy N.D. Of course, he wanted to go to the buvette claiming that he, too, wanted to drink Dafani. I've taken to teasing him about alcohol. He enjoys beer, and dolo, and bandji (the 2 latter drinks are made here and can be found sweet or fermented depending), but I haven't seen him abuse it. It's still fun to tease. When the woman at the buvette told us there wasn't any Dafani, N.D. ordered a beer and I a coke. You see many people pass by the buvette on marché day. I experienced a man come by and sit on the ground next to us, asking for money. I experienced I man who sat next to and chatted with N.D. bug me about drinking a sucrerie (sucre = sugar) and not beer. The I'm-not-going-to-use-profanity-in-my-blog even made the comment that sucreries are for women. Oh, what ignorance. Something else that withstands across cultures and in this case, unfortunately. Luckily, like anywhere else, there is a mix of people and I haven't had too many encounters with people like that man. I just did not appreciate that at all. I'll never understand why it's a big deal when someone isn't drinking or isn't drinking beer. Who cares. For, me, it's not the alcohol, although I intend to be very careful here with that, I don't like the taste. Why would I drink something I don't enjoy? That's idiocy. Oh, well. Some people just don't get it, but I'll keep challenging them. N.D. told me that this man has 2 wives and is looking or wants to get a third. So I asked, do your wives have 2 husbands. He didn't get it. I'm not surprised.

All in all, things are coming together nicely. I'm liking my village and village life more and more and I'm getting more comfortable here. I'm making friends and spending time getting to know people and talking with people. And I'm coming into my own with school and my classes. I'll tell you what though, it sure isn't easy. But as my someone close to me once said, if it were easy, then it wouldn't be worth it.